Loving That Mineral Feeling

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One of the best examples of safe, effective products made of naturally-occurring, inorganic ingredients is mineral make-up (MMU).

The best layman’s definition of it that I found on-line is from Associated Content:

This is an instance where less really is more. All make up is made using the same basic minerals. Mica, iron oxides, and cosmetic clays were ingredients of make up centuries before beauty became industrialized. With industrialization came the addition of ingredients that stretched product to save money in mass production and created bigger profit margins for commerce, but led to less than ideal results for women at the cosmetics counter. Mineral make up uses just those minerals that actually make a difference to the user’s appearance.

I haven’t tried any regular make-up at any price that could stand up to skin’s changing standards as consistently as I would like. Surprisingly, and thankfully, mineral make-up could very well be the answer.

This is the only kind of make-up that may be used after facial peels or microdermabrasion treatments and the only kind considered “safe to sleep in” (but of course, considering other factors for breakouts mentioned in the previous post, it’s not 100% guaranteed).

Mostly naturally-occurring, the ingredients of MMUs are usually non-reactive, contain very little to zero oil and chemicals because they are in loose form (no need for chemicals or oils to keep them pressed together), naturally pigmented, scent-free and keeps well without synthetic preservatives.

As pointed out in many beauty articles, these minerals are nothing new. Mica, iron oxide, silica and titanium dioxide have been used in cosmetics for centuries. The big difference is they haven’t been used in the same combinations as today’s MMUs.

Mineral make-up, incidentally, was officially created in 1977 by Diane Ranger through her own line, Colorescience Mineral Cosmetics.

The mere fact that MMUs are mostly free from synthetic chemicals and dyes is already a big relief to people with very sensitive skin. In loose form, MMUs do not need to add oils to their ingredients. Which means dirt and dust are less likely to contaminate the skin because they won’t easily stick to the oil-free minerals. Add to that the benefit of natural sunblock from titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide, and mineral make-up seems to be the breakthrough discovery of the century.

But there’s always another side to the coin. Mineral make-up has its own pitfalls and shortcomings:

• Less color choices. Finding the right shade of MMU foundation is one of the first and biggest challenges for women who want to use these products. Many people do find the right match for their skin tone. Others resort to mixing and matching two to three different mineral foundation colors to get the right one. Still, MMU foundations have a long way to go to achieve the same range that liquid, cream and non-MMU powder foundations have.

• Shine. The light-reflecting minerals in MMUs are a double-edged sword. Sure, it can take away attention from blemishes and give you a natural glow — if you’re lucky to have a normal, even-keeled skin type. But for other women with erratic, hormonally-affected skin, MMUs may give more shine instead of that “natural glow.” Especially when photographed. MMUs don’t exactly absorb existing oiliness in the skin, so the desired effect depends greatly on application of MMU on cleansed, moisturized skin. Combination or oily skin types must choose their MMU brands carefully, as some tend to be more light reflective than others.

• Flake and cake. Yes, I know many MMU brands claim that their products never crease, flake or cake. But with the different brands I’ve tried, I can say that it all depends on application and skin type, not necessarily the brand. Even the “creamiest” MMU brand can settle in fine lines and make wrinkles appear deeper if used incorrectly or hastily. Most problems I’ve encountered with caking MMU foundation were caused by applying it too soon after moisturizing or washing face, when droplets or unabsorbed emollients “catch” mineral make-up, resulting in a patchy appearance. Flaking on dry skin usually happens when applied without a base or moisturizer. Eager first-time users may tend to use too much mineral make-up, which contributes to caking and creasing.

• Flash-unfriendly. Using MMU for photo shoots is very challenging. In most brands, I found the shine factor too high. The pigmentation of the eyeshadows and blush don’t not show up well, either because they are too reflective. I had to apply mattifiers and matte make-up bases before using mineral foundation and colors to improve the photogenic quality of the make-up.

• Some possible health issues. The minerals in MMUs may not be irritating to skin, but they are still hazards to the eyes, nose and lungs. Breathing in even small amounts of silica or mica may have damaging effects to the lungs in the long run.

• Pocket-heavy. MMU brands cost more than drugstore foundation and make-up because of the cost of ingredients and method of production. A teenager on allowance may not be able to afford using MMUs on a regular basis (except in the case of Babydoll Mineral Cosmetics).

That said, my personal experience with mineral make-up has made me a believer. Among my list of pros for MMU:

• Consistent quality. All the brands of MMU I tried had more or less the same fine quality and texture. More importantly, they all had similar effect on my skin upon application, and the same staying power.

• Even price range. Some MMU brands are more expensive than others, but not by much (compared to the price gap between drugstore and designer make-up). Their similar qualities and ingredients ensure a constant, dependable price range that don’t depend solely on packaging or brand name — although this may change very soon, since brands like Jane Iredale have already established themselves as a more “upscale” MMU brand.

• Less is indeed more. What they show in the ads and instructional videos is true: you need little more than a pinch at a time when applying MMU foundation. For photo shoots and formal occasions, the skin requires more coverage than usual, and MMU foundations is easier to apply without looking heavy or cakey (as long as applied on cleansed, prepped skin).

• No-make-up look. Another claim that turned out to be refreshingly real is the natural, flawless finish and glow from MMU foundation. Average Juanas like us don’t usually have the totally blemish-free skin that we want. Sheer tinted moisturizers and foundations still leave these blemishes exposed, but medium-to-heavy coverage creams, two-way powders and liquid foundation make us look a little bit too made-up. Using mineral make-up on myself and on other women, I discovered that it does achieve that “no make-up” look while effectively concealing pimples, blemishes and light-colored birthmarks.

• Easy peasy. Application is foolproof. Different brands have different ways of explaining it, like the “swirl, tap and buff” mantra of Bare Escentuals to the buff-on, buff-off technique employed by other brands. But however you apply it (circular motion or sweeping motion), the important thing is choosing the correct shade and using a little bit at a time and building up slowly to the coverage you want.

• Melt-proof. It is HOT out there. But mineral make-up stood up well to the test of my rigorous schedule and regular sun exposure. It doesn’t melt, and even at my sweatiest (and I have very active sweat glands), my mineral foundation stayed with me like a good friend. Unfortunately, I have no experience with MMUs in very cold, dry climate.

In the interest of research, I bought products (full-sizes and samplers) from different MMU brands that may be bought locally (retail stores and online). They are: Youngblood, Monave, Babydoll Mineral Make-Up, Luminaire, Bare Escentuals, and Jane Iredale Mineral Cosmetics.

Youngblood

The only MMU available in a local freestanding store, Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics is available at Beauty Bar in Glorietta, Greenbelt and Powerplant malls.

The texture and ease of application were similar to all of the other brands I’ve tried. But unlike other brands, Youngblood also uses rice and starch in their MMU aside from the usual minerals. This could be an issue for those allergic to these ingredients.

Since this was the first MMU I came into contact with, there were issues finding the right shade for me.

Local Youngblood outlets don’t carry the same foundation color range as the brand’s international website. This is a shame because although a majority of Filipinos fall into the “beige” and “soft beige” category, there are more and more morenas out there (like me) who are not exactly as dark as their “tawnee” shade. I compromised by buying a darker shade and combined it with their neutral Mineral Rice Setting Powder.

Youngblood gave good coverage and had dependable staying power. But among the MMUs I’ve tried, this had the greatest tendency to cake if not applied on thoroughly dried skin or if I sweat during application.

Recommendation: Use a very small amount and build up slowly to prevent caking. Apply in an airconditioned room or in a cool area. Test foundation in natural sunlight to get correct shade.

Don’t rely on the sales associates in Beauty Bar because they were not properly trained for MMU application (I knew more just by watching instructional videos on You Tube!).

Apply mattifier or make-up base first if you have oily skin. Their eyeshadow palettes are a good buy, when available. But their color make-up range are generally shimmery and pearlized, which is unflattering for aging skin.

Price range: P1,500 – P1,800++ for 10g mineral foundation. Forget the brushes. There are better kinds for less cost available with other MMU brands.

Monave

This mineral make-up was the grainiest among the bunch. But application is smooth and similar in quality with the rest of the MMU foundations.

There are more shades available when I bought from a local reseller compared to Youngblood, although the names are a bit confusing (Kerrie, Claire, Paula). The coverage was slow to build up, but less prone to caking compared to Youngblood.

Recommendation: Best applied with a flat-topped applicator or kabuki brush. Goes on very sheer at first, but buildable in coverage.

Price range: I bought a sampler for P850 which contains 2 shades of foundation in trial size, 1 concealer foundation and 1 setting powder. I also received freebies: two small baggies of blush and face illuminizer. Take note of the blush color: Desert Rose # 202. It’s great for most skin tones. Shipping fee is not included.

Bare Escentuals or Bare Minerals

By far, the most confusing brand name I’ve encountered among the MMUs I’ve tried. It’s called Bare Escentuals but it’s also known as Bare Minerals. The cap of its powder sifter reads i.d. Why the need for other brand “nicknames”?

But the important thing is, it works well. Good, sheer to medium coverage, easy to apply, decent staying power and a wide range of shades to choose from.

But as with Youngblood, I found it hard to find the exact shade for my skin tone (halfway between full-blown morena and neutrally fair skin, not-exactly yellow nor pinkish undertones — you get the point). I achieved the right shade by mixing sample sizes of medium tan and neutral.

My sampler pack came with a free DVD, supposedly with instructions for MMU application, but the disc was empty (a forgivable mistake). But anyway, the instructional videos are available online.

This brand was the most finely-milled MMU loose powder foundation among the lot. But application felt much the same as the others. Also, there was a tendency for my other make-up clients to sneeze and tear up when I use Bare Escentuals on them compared to other brands.

Other than that, it held up well for both very oily and dry skin types and is less likely to cake than Youngblood. This brand, along with Jane Iredale and Luminaire came out less shiny and easier to manipulate in photos compared to Youngblood and Babydoll Mineral Cosmetics.

Recommendation: Start with the sampler sizes. This site is very informative and the seller is helpful when she happens to be online or around her mobile phone. Buy the concealer only if you have drastic undereye discoloration you want to hide. Otherwise, the foundation works well enough. The foundation stocks run out quickly, so be sure to inquire whether your shade is immediately available or not before paying.

Price range: Full-sizes (9 g.) cost P1,500; samples cost P250 for 1/4 tsp and P150 for 1/8 tsp.). They also have an All-in-one Sampler pack (A.L.O.E.) which costs P1,500. Shipping fee is not included.

Luminaire

Let me start by saying I am currently using this brand over the others.

Yes, it’s true that the brands I’ve tried have more or less the same texture and coverage. But there is also that “x” factor, that quirk that a particular brand addresses better than others. And for me, it was Luminaire.

It doesn’t have very impressive packaging like Bare Escentuals, Youngblood and Jane Iredale. But the first thing I liked about it is the sifter jar is actually filled almost up to the brim with mineral make-up, not just half-jar like most brands.

Of course, this is a matter of perception, but for me it’s important that the packaging corresponds or fits well with the product or content.

I’m sure that all the other brands measure the contents of their products precisely, but it just looks a bit disheartening when I look at Bare Escentuals and Youngblood sifter jars and see the mineral make-up settle into just half the jar. While I understand the need for ample space to prevent spillage, I also admire how Luminaire packaging seems to address the balance between this need and consumer perception.

Another thing I noticed while using Luminaire: my clients were less prone to eye irritation or sneezing. The ingredients listed are similar to other brands, so I’m not sure what contributed to this difference.

But the clincher for me was the fact that I found my foundation color match for both my “dark” days (summer months) and “light days” (natural, fair skin tone when I am mostly indoors).

I tan easily and stay in a particular shade of tan when I go to the beach or go scuba diving. Luminaire’s Tender Tan perfectly captures that coloring. When I’m mostly indoors, I turn lighter, into my more natural skin tone, which matches the Perfectly Neutral foundation shade. I guess it’s all a matter of finding a brand that will suit one’s changing skin tones best.

Recommendation: I’ve seen Luminaire resellers in some bazaars, most recently in the GT Tower Bazaar. It’s best to try the foundation shades personally in these venues.

Their blushes are a must-try aside from the mineral foundation because it is less shiny compared to the other brands (except Jane Iredale). I prefer the Mona Lisa shade. Great for medium to light tan complexions.

Their brushes are also less expensive than Bare Escentuals and Jane Iredale, but work just as well.

Price range: A full-size jar costs about P1,200. The sampler sizes (two foundation colors with free blush — I forgot whether it has concealer included with it or not) set me back about P350. Shipping fee not included.

Babydoll Mineral Cosmetics

The unique selling points of Babydoll Mineral Cosmetics are its price and its allantoin content.

Allantoin is touted as a skin healing and moisturizing extract from the comfrey plant, although regulatory bodies have not yet officially recognized this ingredient and its claims.

Like the others, Babydoll MMU foundation gave good coverage that lasted without producing break-outs on myself or on my clients. The brand has a good range of shades and I found my exact match for my “dark” days (Latte shade).

The only disadvantage was that Babydoll MMU foundation doesn’t photograph as well as Bare Escentuals, Luminaire and Jane Iredale. There is a tendency to look shiny than glowing, especially in photos taken with artificial light and flash. The Dollface Mineral Finishing Powder doesn’t help. I solved the problem by using matte blush and eye colors and topping the foundation with transluscent loose powder. But this kind of defeats the purpose of using mineral make-up.

Recommendation: The Tickle Me Pink Mineral Blush and Sugarkiss Multipurpose Mineral Shimmer are products to invest in if you want to try this brand. The range of colors are great and the blush doesn’t come out as shiny-looking as the brand’s foundation.

Price range: The 10g sifter jar costs only P150. The blush is P110 for 5g and Sugarkiss Multipurpose Mineral Shimmer is P120 for 3g. Not a bad starting point if you are on a very tight budget.

Jane Iredale Mineral Cosmetics

Probably the MMU brand with the nicest-looking packaging, I heard that Jane Iredale was the best mineral make-up to use for photo shoots and film. At the time, I didn’t know where to buy it locally, so I had my aunt bring it back for me from the US. In spite of the expense, I bought a full pot of foundation, blush and eye kit (Daytime Eye Shadow Kit).

Jane Iredale is unequalled among the MMU brands I’ve tried when it comes to pigmentation and coverage, even under studio lights. The texture upon application is similar to other MMU brands, but doesn’t give that obvious sheen. It’s skin-perfecting, although it is better to slowly build-up coverage than to apply a lot at a time to prevent creasing in the eye area.

I used a make-up base very sparingly, and was pleased to find that this brand didn’t need to be toned down in terms of shine in the photos. The make-up colors were also vivid and highly pigmented. A very photogenic MMU brand, indeed!

So why am I not using this brand over Luminaire as an everyday foundation? Two things: price and foundation shade. The price would be worth it for make-up artists or models who want to use MMU to save their skin from cosmetic stress. But you really have to pay for the quality. Plus, the foundation shade I picked needed to be mixed with a more neutral shade to get the color I want. Meaning, if I indulged myself, I would have to buy two foundation shades every single time.

But I confess that I have fallen in love with the Daytime Eye Kit, and use it in my daily MMU routine.

Recommendation: If you can afford Jane Iredale MMU, go ahead! But be sure to ask the sellers for a sampler size or a meet-up date to check which shades would be best for you. The eye and lip kits are also simply wonderful, and are must-haves if you’re the kind of Juana who attends events for a living.

Also, do visit Jane Iredale’s Skin Care blog.

Price range: P2,400 for a full pot of loose mineral foundation. Those interested in the Jane Iredale brand may contact Nature’s Essence through Judith Barran (0917-607-1828) or Norma Barran (0916-398-4531).

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